Pleine nature sur les traces du colporteur des jasseries

An emblematic walk in the footsteps of a traveling merchant

I was close to staying up there. Arriving at the Col des Supeyres and walking in the footsteps of the Jasseries peddler is indeed stopping the passage of time and the little hassles of everyday life, in the middle of majestic nature. The Jasseries peddler hike is then one of the most striking walks in the regional natural park in Auvergne. In Livradois-Forez, straddling the Forez mountains, in the Puy-de-Dôme, a few short kilometers from Praboure. It is here, this family hike adapted to the greatest number of us, sportsmen but also greedy.

Indeed the difference in altitude throughout the course is low, if not over short distances, quickly traveled. Moreover, the variety of natural environments offers great discoveries. From the pass, we cross large meadows with short grass. Then, after a few passages under the trees, the bogs are recognizable. Then come the summer pastures, as close as possible to the jasseries. Before walking on a narrow path in a bushy beech forest. Time thus stands still, in the footsteps of the peddler. Indeed, enamelled lava panels line the route. They tell a story, reported by this traveling merchant. The imagination is in full swing on the Forez mountains. But what is most conducive to disconnection is the relaxing silence that envelops the Hautes-Chaumes.

A life at altitude with full lungs and in the middle of nature in the footsteps of the peddler of Jasseries

Starting from Thiers and in the direction ofAmbert, take the D906, the road nerve of Livradois-Forez. Valcivières is indicated shortly after crossing Vertolaye. Then very practical panels direct you to the long-awaited pass. The drive up is fine. It is, moreover, one of cyclo-passes famous Livradois-Forez. However, in view of the steepness of the road, I am very happy to be transported, without pedals. The alarm clock was hard this morning, it is already almost 11 am when I arrive at the Col des Supeyres. The latter, perched on the Forez mountains at 1366 meters, is just behind his sidekick the Col du Béal (1390 meters).

My partner, my dog ​​and I weren't the only ones who had the idea for this hike. A good fifteen cars are waiting, parked in the car park next to the chalet of the Gentians. Although an appetizing smell rises near the stopover lodge, it is still a bit early for lunch. I go exploring to take some pictures. The air is crisp, I knew I had to cover up. In Auvergne, at more than 1000 meters above sea level, you should never forget one or two extra layers of clothing.

All this whets an already present appetite.

The chalet des gentians seems to be perfectly suitable for finding comfort and warmth on this day in January. The altitude inn is already full for lunch. Advance booking, recommended on the site, is more than justified. Indeed, at the chalet des Gentianes, the "homemade" brings flavors and happiness to the plate. The menu of the day thus consists of a fresh starter and/or an invigorating main course and/or a comforting dessert. The chef is busy in the kitchen. The head of the establishment welcomes me with a big smile. The whole room responds to my "hello". The fire crackles in the fireplace. Yes, really, the setting and the beautiful people who animate it immediately bring warmth and comfort. And the lunch is delicious. The hearty and well-presented dishes warm up the heart and the body as they prepare for the hike.

A hike punctuated with stories of nature told by the peddler of jasseries

I'm going to travel with my dog, and my partner, on the Hautes-Chaumes. The taste buds satisfied and the motivation inflated to block, we left in the middle of nature on the Jasseries peddler's trail. The easy level walk is only 9,2 kilometers long and has little elevation gain (257 meters). I then look for the first emblematic markup of this hiking trail: a leaping little rabbit, drawn on a square of enamelled lava. Here it is ! White and overhanging a wooden post, it stands out well in the landscape. Nearby, a first panel welcomes you and presents the route of the walk. Indeed, the latter is punctuated by 7 breaks including: the peddler, the cabins, the path, the seasons, on the moor, in the meadow or even the Fourme.

My feet tread the thick grass of the Hautes-Chaumes for the first time.

They sink slightly into the ground soaked with ancient humus. The short hike is all the easier as this "rebound effect" underfoot reduces the feeling of gravity for us earthlings. Here and there, snow decorates the trail. I also realize that I have never done a snowshoe hike. My walking shoes slip slightly on the frosty snow. The snowy white coat is, all the same, not thick enough to consider now a walk with snowshoes.

At the second panel, I meet the pedlar who recounts, on enamelled lava, his life as a traveling merchant from chatter to chatter. “I sell books and potions to give you back your heart,” he sang. The peddler sold sheets, fabrics, thread, ribbons and hardware… All useful and heavy merchandise that he carried to the “farms from above”. He accompanies us all along the way, through these panels which teach us many things about life in the Hautes-Chaumes. At the next break, a panel not lacking in humor presents the Supeyres farm. We are at 1300 meters above sea level. The view is Supeyres(be). I continue peacefully on the path towards Malmotte.

A walk on the Hautes-Chaumes in full disconnection

My spouse and my dog ​​took a bit of a lead. I am in the middle of nature, on the edge of the forest. Only the sound of my footsteps breaks the surrounding silence. These precious moments of calm are too few in everyday life. In the distance, a stream flows gently. A cowbell rings. A small sparrow takes off from a branch of a fir tree. The air is humid and cool. Disconnection is fine. I think for a moment of this peddler who travels this route many times a month. He must have been very sporty to walk thus loaded on the Hautes-Chaumes. But the pleasure of hiking is also knowing how to empty your mind. To stop the course of time and take full advantage of the present moment. “The past is gone” as a famous snow queen sings.

The path sinks gently into the forest. On the north side of the hike, the vegetation is quite different. The lichen takes over the trees and gives a fantastic side to this forest which was there long before us. A few steps from the path, an abandoned sheepfold, hidden under the trees, arouses my curiosity. She no longer has a roof. I cautiously enter it, following a natural path: I'm not the only one curious. Inside, a small room separates from the main house. A trough is still visible in this almost windowless niche. You could almost hear the bleating of small animals huddled against each other for warmth.

A poetic path that opens to poetry

Some time before the final loop, I discover the trail sprinkled with snow. At the end of January, we have not yet seen much of it in Livradois-Forez. This small path in the middle of the heather reminds us that we are still in winter. But my poetic inspiration shattered as my feet slipped on this trampled poetry: it was time to reach the Col des Supeyres.

What's more, the last panel on the Jasseries peddler's path spoke of the fourme d'Ambert, that other marvel of nature… The best for last. Speaking of which, isn't it time to taste this famous Fourme d'Ambert, fruit of the Hautes-Chaumes?